04

André Ostier, Leonor Fini in her costume for the ‘Bal du Panache’, 1947

Fini reveals an unexpected side to her work in paintings in which she experiments with the application and materiality of paint. Here, she moves away not only from the precise brushstrokes of her ‘Old Master’ style, but also from clearly defined forms.

Leonor Fini’s ‘The Scarlet Earth’ oscillates between abstraction and concrete pictorial elements. The rich reds and purples evoke a scene from the underworld, possibly the subsoil or a cross-section through layers of sediment. Here and there, one can make out what appear to be worms or crawling creatures. Indistinct outlines of plant-like forms appear along the upper edge of the painting. Are they plants or nature spirits? Fini leaves the motifs too undefined for us to identify them with certainty. She moves even further towards abstraction in ‘Evening Chimera’ which, with its restless red patches against a dark blue background, depicts forms that resist classification, instead resembling a Rorschach test. As viewers, we are left to assign meanings to these forms. For Fini herself, the focus here was undoubtedly on experimenting with the application of paint and its layers. Through her interactions with the Surrealist art scene and her friendship with Max Ernst, she was familiar with techniques such as decalcomania and grattage and employed them herself.

The Scarlet Earth, 1961
Evening Chimera, 1961

Between Chance and Transformation

In toxic smoke and an apocalyptic atmosphere, a transformation takes place. A struggle for existence, a dance between life and death, decay and rebirth.

Ambiguous Metamorphoses, 1953

Three elongated figures fill the pictorial space. At first glance, their bodies appear human, but on closer inspection we see that some limbs are missing, while others have been replaced with animal or mechanical elements. Fini here revisits the themes of shifting states, transformation, and ambiguity, and has accordingly titled the work ‘Ambiguous Metamorphoses’. The complex application of paint, which combines numerous thin layers with thick, impasto passages, further reinforces this mineral-like effect. In combination with the choice of colours ranging from grey-beige tones to sulphur-yellow and orange, this evokes associations with alchemical experiments and witchcraft.

The Abyssal, the Ugly, the Uncanny

Female figures beyond desire and idealisation: Leonor Fini imbues them with a dark power and gloom. In her works, death appears not as something to be feared but as a powerful ally.

An elegant ‘Angel of Anatomy’ confronts us with a deliberate gaze: a slender figure stripped of its skin, whose red flesh and pale bones stand out vividly against the dark background.
The anatomy of the human body held a great fascination for Fini. Even as a young girl, she would visit the mortuary in Trieste and watch the dead being dissected, as can be seen in the painting ‘The Angel of Anatomy’. At the same time, the work’s dark colours and undefined background place it within the ‘Old Master’ painting tradition, as does the dramatic composition with the draped cloak and outstretched wings. It is reminiscent of Caravaggio’s Baroque paintings with their stark chiaroscuro, or of scenes of martyrdom, such as that of Saint Bartholomew being flayed.
Many of Fini’s works reflect the artist’s preference for dark and abyssal themes. Yet the androgynous skeletal figure could also be another self-portrait by Fini. The face appears young and timeless, while its theatrical pose is consistent with her other self-stagings.

Fini frequently uses skeletons or skulls as motifs. She also explores the theme of the Dance of Death. The notion that all things are transient and that in death it makes no difference whether one was rich or poor in life resonates in the four-part folding screen she designed.

Folding Screen / Metamorphosis / Four Skeletons, 1974

Four magnificently dressed skeletons each occupy a panel of the room divider. Here, Fini explores the concept of memento mori, which dates back to antiquity: the realisation of one’s own mortality. The arrangement of the skeletons also recalls the theme of the Dance of Death, in which Death, personified, symbolically leads people out of life in a round dance. Fini’s fondness for elaborate costumes is combined here with an ironic depiction of splendidly dressed ladies who are, in reality, walking skeletons.

Michael Wolgemut, Danse macabre, 1493

Michael Wolgemut, the woodcut artist and teacher of Albrecht Dürer, depicts a Dance of Death in the ‘World Chronicle’, produced in Nuremberg in 1493: several skeletons move or dance together, symbolising death and the transience of human life. Death functions as an equalising force that abolishes distinctions of rank and reminds us that earthly riches are of no significance. Depictions of the Dance of Death were widespread, particularly north of the Alps, from the fifteenth century onwards.

Enigmatic, powerful, or contemplative. Leonor Fini’s hybrid creatures defy clear interpretation and remain mysterious.

The paintings ‘Sphinx Regina’ and ‘The Thinker’ are both imbued with a morbid and mysterious quality. The former depicts one of Fini’s numerous sphinxes disappearing into a dark landscape. It remains unclear whether the eerie surroundings are characterised by death and decay, or whether it is an enchanted forest. The titular winged figure is a descendant of pensive Melancholy, a popular subject in ‘Old Master’ paintings of the late Renaissance. Leonor Fini also follows in the tradition of Dark Romanticism, which evoked sombre, mysterious, and enigmatic narratives in atmospheric scenes.

Sphinx Queen, 1943
The Thinker, 1954

Legacy

The SCHIRN is dedicating the first major exhibition in Germany to Leonor Fini, offering a comprehensive overview of this artist’s fascinating body of work. Drawing on the Renaissance, Symbolism, Dark Romanticism and the tradition of ‘Old Master’ painting, Fini developed a visual language all her own – full of dreams, myth and fantasy. She created female figures that defied traditional gender roles: not passive, but self-assured beings who observe, make decisions, and command the space around them. Fini thus presents a kind of counterworld to the familiar gender stereotypes of Surrealism, in which women were often portrayed as muses or reduced to the role of the femme fatale.
Leonor Fini’s art, together with her penchant for self-fashioning and refusal to submit to social norms, has left a rich legacy in Western popular culture. Fashion designers, in particular, have been inspired by her fantastical visual worlds. The exhibition invites you to immerse yourself in her extraordinary world.

Schiaparelli, The Agony and the Ecstasy, Butterfly Spiral, 2026

Elsa Schiaparelli’s sculptural designs draw directly on Fini’s Surrealist visual language. The artist and the designer knew each other personally; Fini created illustrations of many of Schiaparelli’s designs and also portrayed her daughter.

Lady Gaga, MTV Video Music Awards, 2010

Thierry Mugler’s fashion designs play with the concept of hybridity and transform women into hybrid creatures. His designs from the 1990s, in particular, feature elements that make women appear as Amazons, insects, robots, goddesses, or fantasy creatures.

Alexander McQueen, Savage Beauty Preview in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2011

Fini’s dramatic stagings and her penchant for morbid themes are echoed in Alexander McQueen’s designs. As Fini did in her masks, he incorporates materials of animal origin, such as feathers and antlers, or draws on elements of the skeleton.

Screenshot from the music video for Madonna’s song “Bedtime Story,” 1995

The pop icon is one of the best-known collectors of Fini’s works. In her legendary music video for ‘Bedtime Story’ (1994), she visually echoes Fini’s painting ‘The End of the World I’.

Swen Pförtner, Christopher Street Day in Göttingen, 2023

Fini often depicted men and women in ways that defied the roles assigned to them by society. She wore men’s clothing and celebrated androgyny – long before terms such as non-binary became widely established.

Alan Strutt, Yasmin Le Bon, La Chimère collection, Haute couture fall/winter, 1997

Fini’s fascination with empowered figures and bodies is reflected in the visual self-styling of artists such as Beyoncé, Lady Gaga, and Doja Cat, who often present themselves as powerful, divine women.

Leonor Fini and cat, 1965
Sunday Afternoon, 1980

Fini was not only a passionate cat lover; at times, she had as many as fifteen cats. They brought her comfort and were even allowed to sleep in her bed. Be sure not to miss the painting ‘Sunday Afternoon’ in the exhibition.

Immerse yourself in the magical world of Leonor Fini until February 21, 2027, and discover the artist’s first major retrospective in Germany at the SCHIRN KUNSTHALLE FRANKFURT.